Uluwatu is the southern tip of Bali, where the land ends in limestone cliffs a hundred metres above the ocean. The whole peninsula is dry and scrubby compared to the green you see inland, and the beaches sit at the bottom of long stairways cut into the rock. This is the surf side of the island, and it has been since the seventies.
Most people come for the temple at sunset, watch the Kecak dance, and leave. That works, but it means arriving into the worst of the traffic and seeing one small piece of a much bigger area. Uluwatu rewards an afternoon, not an hour.
A sea temple on the cliff edge, one of the six great temples of Bali. The setting is the point. There are monkeys everywhere near the entrance and they take sunglasses, phones, and hats without hesitation. Sarong provided at the gate.
Performed in the open amphitheatre beside the temple, starting around 6pm as the sun goes down. Chanting instead of instruments, and the story comes from the Ramayana. Tickets sell out on busy evenings, so it's worth getting there early.
Small, reached through a gap in the rocks, with a short stairway down. Gets crowded by midday. The larger beach to the north is quieter and far less known.
A steep climb down past cliffside warungs to a beach that appears at low tide. Good for sitting with a drink and watching surfers.
Reached through a cave passage in the cliff. The water is mostly for surfers, but the walk in is the memorable part.
Wide, white sand, and the only beach here you can drive almost all the way to. The road down through carved limestone is worth the trip by itself.
Long and nearly empty, at the bottom of around five hundred steps. You'll have it mostly to yourself, and you'll feel the climb back up the next day.
Quieter beaches on the eastern side of the peninsula, both down long stairways.
Uluwatu, Padang Padang, Bingin, and Impossibles are all within a few kilometres. Most are reef breaks and none of them are beginner waves. For learning, Kuta or Canggu is the right place.
Twenty minutes north, tables set on the sand, fish picked from ice and grilled over coconut husks. The classic way to end an Uluwatu day.
Single Fin at Uluwatu, and the beach clubs along the peninsula. Sunday evening at Single Fin is busy and has been for years.
Launching from the cliff at Timbis when the wind is right, usually in the dry season. Tandem flights for anyone with no experience.
Inland, with the enormous Garuda Wisnu Kencana statue and daily cultural performances. Better in the late afternoon than midday heat.
Go to the temple early or accept the crowd. By 5pm the car park is full and the path to the cliff edge is shoulder to shoulder. I usually suggest arriving mid afternoon, seeing a beach first, then returning for the dance.
The monkeys are not a joke. They have learned that taking something gets them food in return. Keep glasses on your face and your phone in your pocket, not in your hand.
Almost every beach means stairs. Bingin, Nyang Nyang, Suluban, Green Bowl, all involve a serious climb back up in the heat. If that’s a problem, Melasti and Jimbaran are the easy ones, and there’s no shame in choosing them.
Traffic out is slow after sunset. Everyone leaves at the same time. I’d rather tell you now than have you wonder why we’re sitting still on the way back.
Sarong and sash are required at the temple. They’re handed out at the entrance, and shoulders should be covered.
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